It wasn't the fridge. It was the T terminal of the splicer clamp that was loose and was causing all kinds of havoc. I wiggle it, and the voltage fluctuates between 0 and 14. When it is stable, the voltage sometimes drops to 2 as soon as the fridge is turned on, probably because the loose contact created impedance.
The remaining question is why the fuse blew. It's possible that I blew it while testing it with multimeter. I may have set the dial for amperage while testing the voltage. That would short the circuit and blow the fuse. The fluctuating voltage and the blown fuse made me suspect there was a shortage in the fridge and had ICECO send me a new one. That must cost ICECO about $700. I owe them apology. The only winner in this fiasco is Canyons of Escalante who got a perfectly functioning ICECO fridge for nothing. I left the old one there since ICECO didn't want them back and I didn't have room in my car.
I really have to get a 10 pin connector that hooks right into the Tesla's female. I should've done that at the first place, except that I couldn't find the connector. There is none on Amazon and there was only one online vendor who sells females. And I need a male. I'll check with NAPA automotive store in Monticello if they have one. I doubt it though. If they don't have it, I'll have to rework with the T terminal of splicer somehow, so that it'll be more secure. perhaps I can crimp the receiver to hold the insert more secure. Or bend the tip of the insert so that it'll stay locked in place when plugged in. Then I'll check with Tesla when I get to Denver if they have the 10 pin connector. I have to take the car in to repair the unhinged rear window anyway when I get there.
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