Saturday, July 9, 2022

Grand Teton

The first order of business was to find a campsite. I tried to get to the Shadow Mountain, the only dispersed campground in the Teton, as early as I could, but it was full at the valley level. I had to climb up the dirt road to see if any site was available. I went up quite a way, but all reachable sites were taken. Then I ran into the park employees on an ATV, and they told me one site was open down below. It was in the loop that I skipped on the way up because it appeared unreachable. I went down and went into the loop this time. One site was available indeed and I pitched my tent there. The entry into the campground was all dug up and getting in and out was tricky. But I was able to manage by driving on the edge and the habitat for a week was all set.


Someone, in Wyoming I think, told me that Delta Lake was the absolute best in the Grand Teton. Naturally, it became my first destination. I drove to Lupine Meadow trailhead in the morning, parked on the side of the road -- the parking lot was full -- and set out for 7.4 mile, 2200 feet gain trail to Delta Lake. 

I wasn't in a good shape for some reason. By the time I got to the last half a mile that required scrambling over rocks, I started to black out. It was familiar "heat stroke" except that it wasn't warm, and I wasn't carrying a heavy camera around my neck. It was sunny, however. So, it may be the light sensitivity more than anything else that triggers the "heat stroke". I had to take it slow; I didn't want to faint, fall off the rock and hit my head. I got to the lake at 1:45 PM.


I could see why someone who hadn't seen alpine lakes of the Sierra or Colorado would be so impressed by Delta Lake. But I have seen many of them and the murky water of Delta Lake did not impress me; I was sure this wasn't the best of the Grand Teton. I spent about 30 minutes for lunch and then was back at the trailhead around 4PM. Then I went back to Jackson. I had to get crampons and ice axe to tackle the Grand Teton Loop and the car was getting low on charge. One place that had the crampons wanted exorbitant sum, so I gave up on that. I bought some grocery instead while I was there and then got back to my campsite after 7PM.

After a day of rest, I set out to retrace our route in 2017 from Moran to Moose. Back then, we didn't go into the park; we stayed on Hwy 191 and followed the Reader's Digest Scenic Route from Signal Mountains to Moose. This time, I went up the highway, looped back into the park at Jackson Lake and then drove down to Moose via Jenny Lake. It was an all-day outing, a great photo trip. 

By now, I've been in Teton for 3 days and I'm yet to start the backpacking the Grand Teton Loop, and I was anxious to get that going. I stopped at the Moose Visitors Center to get the permit. The rangers were again adamant that I don't go unless I have crampons and ice axe. I decided to make a daytrip to Hurricane Pass instead.

There was some snow for sure. But it wasn't nearly as much as it was in Sawtooth Mountains. I could've continued on to Alaska Basin fine, except that I didn't bring my backpacking gear with me. I should have in retrospect. I could've come prepared and then turn around if it was impassible. Oh well, live and learn. The trail itself was stunning. It went up the Cascade Canyon following the creek almost all the way. Then it followed the North Fork when it forked at the junction to Paintbrush Canyon. Next time, I should camp at the junction and day-hike to Paintbrush Canyon. Then continue to Alaska Basin and Phelps Lake, making it a 4-day trip.

Near the beginning in the valley, I encountered a moose which for some reason I thought was a statue. I must've been thinking about the statues in Jackson on the roadside. I stopped only when I was within 10 yards of it. I took some photos and quietly move on.


I started the 24-mile trekking at 5AM, got to the Hurricane Pass around 1PM, and finished at 7PM. It was the longest day hike I've ever done to date.

The next day I went to Jackson again for lunch at Chinatown Restaurant, fill the water and fill the car. After a day of rest, I was on Death Canyon trail to Alaska basin this time. Death Canyon also followed a creek all the way to the Death Canyon Barn. Then it climbs up to the peak on the way to Alaska basin. The trail was exposed and rather boring at that point. So I came back to the Barn and continued on the death Canyon trail. It was shaded, and mosquito-ed, but wasn't that exciting either. After a few miles, I turned around and came back out. After that, I was out of the Tetons and on my way to Pineapple.

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